I stepped out onto my deck this
morning, bird feeders in hand, and was met with the cool, crisp air that is
common on an early November morning. The
sun was low on the horizon, and the woods were relatively quiet. The smell of wood smoke from a neighbor’s
chimney floated on the ever so slight morning breeze. It is the sort of morning that transports me
back to another time and place.
Once more I was back at Raccoon
Lake, our home away from home for the first two decades of my life. Our little trailer tucked into the woods of
Parke County, Indiana was our weekend retreat, and the cooler temps of autumn
did not discourage us in the least. Gone
were the hours of fishing and boating, but in their place was hiking the woods
and enjoying the sights and smells of autumn.
The fragrance of fallen leaves was ever present, even though we had
thoroughly raked our own lot, either pushing the leaves deeper into the woods,
or piling them in long rows along the gravel road to be burned. What fun I had setting match to dried leaves
and watching as the pile began emitting its heavy smoke before finally erupting
into flame. As the mound shrank, and the
brown and golden leaves were replaced with black, charred skeletons with red glowing
edges, I would take the rake and stir the pile to bring the unburned fuel to
the surface to mix with air and again burst into flame. Often burning leaves would cling to the tines
of my rake, and I felt like a Greek or Roman god delivering fire at the end of his
mighty staff.
Early in the morning I would sneak
down to the lake itself to glimpse life on the water. Often a thin layer of fog hovered just above
the calm surface of the water, and from it emerged the shadows of migrating
Canada geese and small coots. I was a
city boy, and geese were far less common in those days, so to watch these
beautiful birds drift lazily over the water, or hear a small formation honking
overhead, tracing a “V” in the sky before descending, noisily and making a
splashing touchdown on the lake thrilled me.
Interspersed with the large silhouettes of the geese were the small,
black coots. I would see them in small
numbers during the summer, but they were more concentrated at this time of
year. Occasionally, one would “run”
across the water’s surface in an attempt to become airborne. Although the birds were much closer to me at
this time of year, they were still rather skittish and I had to approach slowly
and crouch behind exposed tree stumps in order not to force them farther across
the lake.
The stumps were exposed at this time
of year because the lake would be partially drained each fall. Raccoon Lake is a man-made reservoir that is
part of the flood control for the Wabash River, so each fall the water level
was dramatically lowered so the area could function as a receptacle for
potential floodwaters later in the season.
This process opened up an entirely new world for me to explore. The various inlets, or bayous as we called
them, which had been broad expanses of deep water all summer, were now no more
than streams cutting through muddy ravines.
Trunks of trees sacrificed when the area was first flooded to create the
lake still clung to the soil, their roots now fully exposed. In other areas, the ground was strewn with
large slabs of sandstone and shale. The
island which sat in the middle of our bayou was at this time of year, a sandy
rise in the middle of a muddy field.
Using our hill as the starting point
I could go either to the northeast or to the southwest along the lake’s
border. My preferred trail was the one
going to the northeast, and that was always my first exploration of the
year. Starting from our trailer, I would
head down the steep, muddy bank which led to a small rivulet of water. In the spring, this stream would be alive
with spawning shad, but at this time of year it was quiet. Anxious to begin my trek, I first had to
overcome the most difficult obstacle of the entire hike which was the ground
itself. The soil, having soaked up water
for nine months of the year, was a quagmire consisting of soft clay and areas
that were akin to quicksand. I would
hope for a cold morning where the ground would be frozen enough to support my
skinny, ten year old frame, but that was rarely the case. More than once I became trapped in the muck,
only to have it pull my boot or shoe from my foot. This usually occurred after
convincing myself I could mentally make my body lighter as I tiptoed across the
soft, grasping clay. I would imagine myself
growing lighter as if filled by helium, and as I stepped forward I was positive
I was not resting my full weight on my foot. Then I would sink halfway to my
knees and have to struggle mightily to escape. I guess my repeated failures in this mental
exercise were one of my first lessons in physics, but apparently I was a slow
learner since I applied the same approach year after year. Try as I may, I could rarely find a point at
which I could cross the stream, so my solution was to follow the shoreline
until it reached the woods, then trace the stream into the woods until it
became narrow enough to jump or a fallen tree provided a natural bridge. Then I would return through the woods to the
far side of the inlet where I would again emerge on the shoreline. As long as I stayed with the high ground, I
could navigate this area of the cove.
My first destination was the island
that sat in the middle of our inlet. Because
it was inaccessible the rest of the year, the island always held a particular
fascination with me. To call it an
island is to be rather generous. It was
a small sandbar on which a handful of willows and grasses had taken root. What my sister and I found particularly
interesting there were the large, gelatinous blobs that hung from the branches
which had previously been submerged. We
did not know what these were, but we mistakenly assumed they were collections
of frog eggs. In reality, what they were
were bryozoans, a community of invertebrate animals, known also as “moss
animals,” which have ciliated tentacles and feed by filtering plankton from the
water. Regardless of their true identity,
they were exotic and always a prized find.
Sadly, over the years, the bryozoans disappeared, and as erosion
increased with boat traffic, so did the island itself.
Bryozoa |
Having explored the island, I began
making my way around the lake’s perimeter.
Some of the muddiest hiking was this first inlet until I reached the
rocky point jutting out into the water.
Here was where the chunks of sandstone and limestone began. I scanned the surface of each stone, looking
for fossils of the prehistoric ocean and tropical landscape which had once
existed here. Sometimes I would uncover
a piece of coral. At other times, a
chunk of petrified wood might be exposed.
Likewise, ripple patterns of the shore of some long forgotten lake could
be found frozen in stone. On breezy
days, I would sometimes stack the rocks to make a small fortress where I could
hide from the cold wind racing across the remaining water and relax in the warm
sunshine.
Leaving the rocky area, I retreated
into the maple grove that had sprung up on the point. In the spring, when the water was high and the
crappies were spawning, this was a favorite fishing hole. However, at this time of year, my interest lay
not in the shoreline, but in the foundation of an abandoned farmhouse now
consumed and hidden by the young trees.
There is a frustrated archeologist in me, and I never pass up an
opportunity to explore the “ruins” of a past life when they present themselves. Very little remained of this home beyond a
foundation wall, some old fencing and the occasional cracked drainage
tile. So for me, it was the darkness of
the woods and the ghostly presence of a long, lost family that created the
attraction.
Emerging on the other side of the
maple grove I continued on with my shoreline exploration. The ground was generally drier in this area,
and it allowed me to get a little closer to the water. My focus from this point on was to search for
hidden treasures among the gnarled roots of the surviving stumps and the
branches of newly toppled trees. These
were the hidden hazards that had claimed many a fisherman’s line the prior
summer. I would look for a flash of
fishing line waving in the breeze or emerging from the surrounding sand. Following this, I would trace it into the
depths of the stump until I could locate its “business end.” Here I might only find a couple of lead
sinkers and a rusted hook, but if I were lucky I might stumble upon a fancy
lure or new jig. My tackle box was full
of these sacrificed artificial baits, and I believe I still have a few tucked
away 40 years later. The only problem
was how to transport them home if I had a particularly successful hunt. The treble hooks would embed themselves into
my pockets or canvas knapsack, but somehow I managed.
Some of my "found" lures |
A closer look |
Another treasure for which I was
constantly on the hunt, but much less successful, was lost anchors. The same clay which would sometime claim my
shoe would also on occasion refuse to give up a lead anchor which had buried
itself a little too deeply. More
commonly it would again be a submerged tree stump into which the falling anchor
had drifted and wedged months before that held the prize. So every scrap of nylon rope emerging from
the sand had to also be explored, and in doing so I was able to add a couple of
anchors to our collection over the years.
Other discoveries were more serendipitous. These included lost sunglasses, cigarette
lighters, a lost (but empty) wallet, a nice skinning knife and sheath which I
still own, and what I seem to recall as being a small animal pickled in a
jar. The latter may be one of those
memories that the brain creates or expands upon over the years, but I can clearly
see in my mind a jar with what looked like a baby monkey stuffed inside. Perhaps someone had tossed out an old biology
specimen jar, or maybe a container of some foodstuff had fallen into the water
and the material inside had molded creating a fuzzy form. As for myself, I choose to believe I found a
pickled monkey.
My skinning knife |
Situated a couple of points over
from our trailer was a hillside containing houses and apartments. For a few years a family with a black lab
resided there, and she would frequently join me for my walks. Moseying down from grassy hill, she would
come up to me with wagging tail and beg to be petted. I would look for a stick to toss her and she
would obligingly retrieve it, living up to the characteristic of her breed. Together we would proceed on, exploring rocks
and stumps together until the bank became too steep to safely traverse. Here I would do an about face and return
home, leaving my walking companion back at her home.
The hike in the opposite direction
was just as enjoyable, but usually much less productive. Here the shoreline was nearly entirely rocky
and very few stumps existed to explore.
I seem to recall a greater collection of fossils from this path, but few
finds beyond that. But it always felt
like new territory to me, and with new territory comes the promise of new
discoveries. That is a feeling that
still motivates me. Just walking down a
new street in a familiar neighborhood gets my heart pumping a little bit
faster.
Fossilized coral |
Petrified wood |
Another piece of an a prehistoric tree |
As the season became colder, our
visits became fewer, but we were fortunate enough to return a few times during
the dead of winter. Now the lake could
be approached without the threat of becoming mired in clay and muck. I could now explore the frozen lake, although
that was only when I was convinced the ice was several inches thick. One winter, I found a pair of old ice skates
in the basement and took them with me to the trailer. My plan was to clear an area of ice and skate
on the frozen lake. I made my way out to
the small patch of ice that remained in our bayou and using a broom swept away
the snow. Conveniently located at one edge of the clearing was a stump, and it
was there I sat to switch from boots to skates.
Having secured my ice skates, I stood up from the stump to get a feel
for the ice. Immediately I began moving
away from the stump, although I had not made a move. In clearing the ice, I had failed to notice
that the water level below the ice had at some prior time dropped, and the
entire lake surface had cracked and buckled inward slightly. The stump had been at the high end of a very
large, slanted slab of ice and as soon as I stood up, I began sliding downhill. I did not know how to ice skate, and I
certainly didn’t know how to skate uphill, so no matter how fast I moved my
feet, I continued to slide backwards away from the stump and my boots. I suspect in the end, I just fell over and
climbed my way back up hill where I forever gave up my dream of skating on the
lake, slipped on my boots and trudged back to the trailer.
Yet I still found other ways to enjoy the frozen lake. Once I followed some ice fisherman to what was
nearly the center of the lake one year.
They walked single file, each tethered to the other as they tested the
ice. Once in the center, they used an
auger to drill a large hole through nearly a foot of ice. What I remember most about that day is the low,
moaning of the ice, and the hollow yet thunderous sounds it would make as it cracked
and shifted. It was an eerily beautiful
sound, and although there were numerous fissures running in all directions over
its surface, the frozen lake was in no danger of opening and swallowing me.
Once spring returned, I usually made a repeat trek around the
lake’s perimeter before the water started to once again rise. I knew there were no more treasures to be
found, but spring fever urged me on. I
watched the trees bud and the fish return to the shallows. Soon the lake would rise, the temperature
would warm, mushrooms would sprout, wildflowers would explode on the hillsides
and another year of adventure would begin anew.
As with the lake, there is a natural ebb and flow to
life. I have experienced many highs and
lows in the intervening years, but always with the promise of new adventures
still ahead. But also like the lake, I
have felt a drain – a drain on my memory.
For the past two years I have tried to put down on paper some of my
favorite recollections of the past. However,
my mental water level is also at a low point, and I’m afraid I have written all
that I can recall that I felt was worthy of a story. So for now I close my blog. Perhaps something will come to mind in the
future, or one of those hoped for adventures may yet bring some
excitement. If so I will share it with
you. In the meantime, the old stories will remain
here. Check in every once in a while
just in case I have some rare inspiration, but don’t expect to see much new. Again,
a huge thanks to the few of you who have stopped by to share my “ramblings”
these past two years. It has been a
pleasure sharing them with you, and I am thankful for the new friendships they
have helped create. I truly wish I had
more to share. Keep sharing your own
memories, and my very best to you all.